Modacalzado and Iberpiel, the international fair of shoes (Modacalzado) and leather goods (Iberpiel), sometimes known also as “Sipiel”, hold in Madrid from 25th till 27th September, just finished. We were there to see it. One of the highlights of the whole event was a lecture on next season fashion trends presented by Aldo Premoli.

Aldo Premoli is a prestigious fashion critic, designer and international „cool hunter”. The initiative was organised by the Italian Institute for external commerce and the national association for Italian Footwear (ANCI), in cooperation with Sipiel. Aldo Premoli is perhaps one of the main and best experts in international fashion, particularly concerning footwear and accessories.

Modacalzado - Coclio

With a professional career of great importance in the world of fashion, particularly within the press and fashion critics, Aldo Premoli, has held among others, interesting responsibilities, such as editor of VOGUEPELLE and the prestigious L´UOMO VOGUE. He has combined his brilliant career as a journalist with his teaching activity in prestigious centres such as the Boccioni university, various University Institutions in Milan and the European Institutes for Design.

Dedicated to specialised tendency assessment for prestigious firms of international luxury (BULGARI, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, VICINI…), as a writer, he is the author of works that have already become classics in the specialised newspaper libraries of the world (“Paul Smith True Brit” and “Stepping into the Art”.

Modacalzado - Looky

At Modacalzado, Aldo Premoli revealed his prediction of women’s and men’s footwear for spring and summer 2009:

STREET TRIBE
Ethnic – technical look. Contamination is the key word for a dynamic and modern interpretation of streetwear. Garments typical for sportswear. Technical and performance oriented. Taking inspiration from minimised ethnic roots. Steer clear of obvious mannerisms. Softening the influences of African art with modernity and taste.

Modacalzado - Paulo Brandao

Colours
The fusion is especially expressed with the use of colours of obvious tribal origin. Deep vegetable tones articulated by neutrals. Interspersed with bright sunny colours

Materials
Contamination also inblending materials. Leathers are natural, vegetable, grainy, drummed. Renewed by combinations with more artificial technical features like metallic spreads or patents, washed, wrinkled. Craftsmen finishes that are both ethnic and cool, like colour washes or creases. The use of simple structured fabrics, canvasses, twills, at times articulated by the different thickness of the yarns or by the mix of technical and natural fibres to create glossy-matte effects.

A composite, but decidedly elegant season: a return to an ethereal, seductive and radical feminity. Wedges and plateau remain, but they are joined by forms that are decidedly lighter than in the past, perfect for interpreting models taken from the more classic western feminine tradition – from ballerinas to pumps. But these shapes must be redesigned in terms of proportions, materials and colour effects. The new entry par excellence is the pearl and mother of pearl effects used to add a decorative touch, light and form. Still important this season - metallic colours, but no longer shiny; instead rather satiny and antiqued in perfect tune with the general mood of the 2009 Spring/Summer season.

Modacalzado - Rocio Mozo

WOMEN´S STYLES

Les années folles
The most elegant period for women’s fashion in the twentieth century returns as an irresistible ally in the exposition which recently closed at the Galleria Museum in Paris. Lighter shapes, heels which are never exaggeratedly high, leather and fabric together, delicate botanical patterns of early Japanese inspiration, a delightful palette of neutral blondes.

Modacalzado - Salvador Sopena

Déco
European design meets oriental decoration. Here again, the spotlight is on fabrics, leathers with fabric prints or evident grains. Contrasts in gloss and matte. The open-toe continues to be popular, but the ballerina is in perfect tune with this style. Here, heels can definitely be unusual. The colours are dense and the metals are burnished.

Modacalzado - Marshoes-ras

European sophisticate
Ironic and urban, the byword for the summer pump or the exquisitely fashioned “bare” sandal. Shoes low-cut on the foot to reveal the beginning of the toes. Decisive heels, high but not necessarily spike. The palette of neutral colours is brand new. The image? Claudia Cardinale in the film “The Magnificent Cuckold”.

Modacalzado - Patricia

Chic sport
The seduction exuded by the woman who has everything and doesn´t have to prove anything. Sporty city wear, that has nothing to do with sports. Comfortable, but luxurious. More saddlery than active wear. Leather and fabric, cord and tartan patterns. Flat heels and comfortable shapes.

Modacalzado - Paco Herrero

The plateau sandal
Wedges and plateau continue to be at centre state. No limits to global inspiration. Southern Africa, the East and the Mediterranean all come together. Materials like wood and leather, fabric and metal one after the other on the same model. Sculptured heels, always at the centre of the attention. Mimetic and animal effects and small floral prints.

Modacalzado - Zontary

The gem sandal
The marine inspiration is a true novelty. The slightly retro siren with a touch of Star Trek loves pearls and mother of pearl, but also netting, braiding and marine encrustations. And stones in a rainbow of coral reef colours.

Modacalzado - Ramon Tenza

MEN´S STYLES

Plastic elegance

Mood and colours
The new elegance means clear-cut, clean, minimal, plastic lines both in terms of volume and material. The allusion to the late eighties is clear. The simplicity of expressing an almost cyber beauty comes together in a style that, at times, re-echoes androgyny, but in reverse the colours re-echo the design of the period. The very dark tones of the resins, illuminated by polishing are counterpoised to intense, but porous tones, like cement in sophisticated nuance.

Materials

Preferably, the materials are soft and thin, ultra-light: Nappa leathers, nappa calfskin, brushed, at times with lacquered or mirrored effects, surfaces may be smooth and clear, wavy with light drumming. The braid work is fundamental both in leather and in corded fabrics, but also open – work interpreted in a modular graphic key.

Modacalzado - Carlo Torrecci

Evanescence

Mood and colours
The new casual is both aggressive an ethereal, characterised by a mix of drive and sophistication. Extreme in interpretation and in proportions but pervaded by elegant details conceived in extreme and poetic romance. A chromatic palette characterised by the neutral melange. The rich pastel accents are inspired directly by the iridescence o the jellies.

Materials
The concept of evanescence also accompanies the creation of materials – thin, light, impalpable, wide use of reptile skins, valuable skins or in contraposition ultra light chamois combined with pearlised calfskins. Fabrics are fundamental. Compact cotton or technical satins or, in alternative, airy structures like netting and tulle.

Modacalzado - Zampiere

(1/10/2008)