Classicism merges with modernism, nature unites with urbanism, tradition pairs with futurism – these interactions open up an exciting season: re_worked future/the time is now ! Contrasts are defining the trends of the winter season 2009/10. Deliberate breaches are existential in any of the four topics and reflect our society. Today fashion is defined by different lifestyles not by one special look. There is a turning to the „real life“: authentic and rustic, yet with a little twist. The counter movement is to be seen in the ever progressing development of the high tech field: a new lightness of the material provides sculptural shaping followed by innovation with the silhouettes.

Short and narrow spencers with voluminous trousers. Voluminous new knitwear with extremely slim leggings, also of leather. Saharel pants with drapery tops and sports coats. Collars and cuffs are accentuated – often by fur and pelt. Key materials are wool and leather as well as leather imitations. Knitwear is in the focus, mostly with uneven surfaces reaching from braid to plait up to pelt knitted in. The surface of the fabrics, too, is uneven. On the one hand by the ever-present Tartan Check, on the other hand by weaves like bouclé, velvet and patchwork.

Color is still one of the main topics though used in a more subtle and shaded way than in summer 2009. The opposite pole comes here by a completely new palette of „dark shades of black “: all imaginable shades, somehow with a touch of staining thus bringing interesting notes. Inspirations with natural tones breathe new life into the palette of red: by adding-on most diverse greens and browns.

The four trend topics for Autumn Winter 2009/10 reflect the contrasts of the season:

• Mystic Power
  
• Winter Trail
  
• Shy Glam
  
• Bohemian Wonderland
  

The topics of Dynamic Vibes are additionally stamped by the trends of Youth Culture, Blogs and Communities of the worldwideweb. This is reflected by the following topics:

• Culture Remix
  
• Campus Revolution
  
• Nature Gang
  
• Party Vagabonds
  

Black Invasion
black, mystic, mysterious

Paint it Black. A world of colors of morbidly blackened shades inspired by Science Fiction movies. Black plays the lead and never stands alone: it is produced. The scale reaches from shimmering „raven black” over NightBlue to BrownBlack and MatBlack. Tone on tone „dark on dark“ contrasts are created by dark GranReservaRed, Copper as well as GreyViola and BlackPlum.

A Wonderful World
feeling safe, natural, traditional

The „good, old values“ in an interaction with a new respect for the environment and green Eco-ideas. Colorful autumn foliage turn nature in a flaming blaze of colors of red- and brown shades. Patinated to reddish brown shades besides slightly darkened meadows and forest tones. AshGlowOrange and LumberjackRed for freshness and joy of living.

Silent Agitations
silent, shaded, urban

The cool shades of winter inspired by architecture and lithography. Smart, smooth, soft – new pastels. Shaded nuances rendering a winterly-urban mood. Powdery sand- and rosé shades are side by side with skin and Balsa-Brown. ElephantGrey as well as CoffeeBrown are accentuated by violet CloudGrey.

Unexpected
vibrant, brilliant, surprising

The most colorful of the winter topics. Between Neo Folklore and Cossack Uniforms. Noble to Casual. A weird color world of a video game mixed with ethnic patterns. An array of NasturtiumOrange and PureColors like greenish MaizeYellow, ShockingPink and Petrol. The anchor is supplied by ElephantGrey, Cream and Black.

Mystic Power

Blac Magic by LONGCHAMP

Look
A dark look - romantic to militant - dictates this topic. Punk citations meet evening robes, wide Tudor collars over leather leggings. Frills and embroideries are self-evidently combined with rivets and knitwear in spiderweb design. Victorian influences are seen at impressingly frilled collars and ruffled elements. Delicate, transparent Chiffon tops to luscious leather pants with a soft luster. Partial use of lace, tone on tone embroideries and sequins create distinguished decadence.

Look/male
Medieval influences meet Punk and Rocker. Luster and glamour have reached men’s world. Elements reaching from mat to shiny, tone on tone to contrasty. Metallic fabric or effective yarns renew even classical suits. The silhouette becomes a bit wider whereas the shoulders are kept narrow. The lapel is spotlighted and accentuated.

Bags
Decorated and expressive. A central topic is the rivet aspect. What is new: rivets underneath the leather or three-dimensional rivet structures coined in the leather. The variety of shapes comprises midsize bags over clutch bags with grips plaited round up to “collection bags” with evening decoration. Sling bags and shoppers appear new by uneven surfaces: innovative pleat techniques and loosely riveted leather applications. Fan-shaped seams and pleats create dynamic at mid-sized sling bags. Passes-through instead of handles are omnipresent. Still important are tiny casket bags and clutches. Metal chains, trimmings, and ornaments are seen everywhere: either decently tone on tone or in gold and silver in antique finish. The leather appears structured, grained or embossed and coined with rubberized or oily shimmering surfaces. Citations from knight’s armours and mail shirts, ornate fittings, skulls and gemstones bring about a “medieval- gothic” look.

Bags/male
„Heavy Metal“ also rules the men’s bags. Flatly hewn, pointed or conic – main thing enough fittings on the bags. Weekender shapes get smaller, shoppers are beside the crossover bags. Nylon bags with contrasting linings and deep-black canvas backpacks. Straps and handles at the men’s bags show elaborate details.

Winter_Trail

Mood

Rustic Beauty by ABRO

Look
Robust, authentic materials and traditional processing techniques illustrate the topic. Valence as basic concept for designs that are nevertheless trendy. New widths with the silhouettes: the waist is slightly accentuated or completely draped. Pants in diverse variations: the high-cut Jodhpur besides the moderate Bellbottom as well as the straight Boyfriend. „Amish village“ as inspiration for woollen jackets and trousers as well as blouses with pleated breast and frills. A central topic are the new woollen materials extremely voluminous and fluffy. Airiness is a must with the voluminous textiles. Again going for noble, rustic Highland Plaids and Trapper Checks. Traditional Canadian Lumberchecks and plaid patterns appear fresh in new color combinations. Knitwear is elementary: ever voluminous, never heavy, always structured and something special.

Look/male
Power and Vintage paired with Check-Chic. Brushed surfaces and Loden qualities. The shape of pants is borrowed from equestrian sports; buckles and leather trimmings beside checked trousers. The „great American Outdoor“ world. Dufflecoats and Patchwork cardigans alongside with military coats. Knitwear is extremely robust. Lambskin jackets guarantee „Trapperfeeling“.

Bags
The genuine look dominates. The beauty of vegetable tanned leather and furs, natural materials like wood and canvas are dominating. The world of the farmers and equestrian sports brings about braids and paddock attributes. Braiding as contrast to rough canvas materials. Strap elements “girding” the bags can be seen with medium-sized sling bags and Queen Mom shapes. Check woollen material combined with saddle leather: this matters for big, voluminous bags and pouches. Metal attributes are rather more discreet and restrained, they are seen with locks and fittings. Fur and lambskin bags show similarities with saddle bags. Patchwork aspects in tone on tone colours for sling bags with an almost square design. Vintage look by washed or cooked rustic leather with volume and grip, however no way heavy when carrying.

Bags/male
Untreated leather- and fur shoulder bags with open, untreated edges. Oiled and almost shining antique leather types for large-sized shoppers. Uniform bags as well as details borrowed from antique military satchels, net elements from the fishing- and hunting field. Aged Craquelé – Leather and exaggerated scar effects accompanied by velours. Plait effects for Overcross bags and Weekenders. A concise, robust statement.

Shy Glam

Cool Drama by OFFERMANN

Look
The variety of shapes spans from O-Shapes to Tulips up to humidshimmering drapery in S-line. On the one hand we still have classics like sporty quilted jackets that surprise with shorter and new widths. As antipole we see softly flowing, unconstructed Jersey tops that practically “twine around” the body. The pant’s shapes are either extremely wide and voluminous, softly falling or drainpipe. Pencil skirts are combined with shoulder-accentuating jackets. The broad shoulders of the”power-dressed” 80s are even more sharpened and imaginatively decorated. Narrow blazers are either short or show evening Tuxedo response. The key materials are leather, nylon, powerful tweed, highly- twisted suit material beside sturdy silk. The material is freshened by geometric miniature patterns, two-tone effects as well as Cloqué–surfaces.

Look/male
Technical material, coatings as well as bondings are the counterbalance to the Vintage Trend. Ultralight with a subtle brilliance. Casual mixed with the elegance of Savile Row Tailoring. Sharply cut sports coats and very urban short coats in technical qualities are combined with business pleated trousers of shortened lengths. Dressing – Up and formal Wear remain important and are modernized by box-shaped cuts. Layering with contrasting colours supply freshness in styling.

Bags
Structured, clear and with defined contours is the appearance of the bags. Clutches come very restrained and with only a few discreet decorations. Shoppers are decreasing and give room to sling bags in upright format as well as Foldovers. Baguette shapes at short handles give a modern suspense by stripes resulting from material contrasts. Contrary to that supple, soft, and extremely light pouch shapes are seen that remind us of car airbags due to their smooth and soft leather. Some moved and structured surfaces like Croc or irregular plaits and Origami style surprise with innovative three-dimensional design while sticking to clear shapes. Metal accessories are tarnished and used only selectively and modestly – simply at passes-through as eyecatcher.

Bags/male
The volumes shrink. Classics like briefcases get smaller and become a male Clutch with a loop. Magnetic locks substitute zips at pouches made of braided nylon. Matchsacks are renewing the multitude of shapes in polished leather with a solid bottom. Straps and handles become clearly much more slim, virtually feminine.

Bohemian Wonderland

Oriental Gipsy by CROMIA

Look
The Arabian Nights are the creative source at first place: imposing, dramatic, and particularly voluminous. Allover prints and Paisleys side by side with strikingly colorful effects in a colorblock. The vivid scale of colors of the summer continue in this winter topic. Wide blouses in Tunic shape with leggings and short skirts. With it impressing shawls. Velvet and brocade have a great comeback. Fancy tissues with colorful relief stripes and three-dimensional embroidery. Fur and pelt vests combined with luxurious brocades and glittering, ornamental prints for opulent outfits. The Jodhpur pant is a fashionable highlight beside the Saharel pant. Traditional handicraft techniques such as lace-making, knotting and embroidery in interaction with Gobelin patterns create East-European Gypsy romanticism.

Look/male
A mix of patterns and wide, protective covers are also the focus in men’s fashion. Patchwork elements and the contrast between Folk and Business Chic. More discreet is the use of tone on tone arabesques on knitwear or as print together with shining narrow pants. Nylon and glittering woollen qualities in combination with mat surfaces. Particularly in the case of knitwear tone on tone silhouettes are freshened by signal colors. Color contrasts in traditional stitch patterns or in large-scale pattern repeats. Velvet and fine-ribbed curduroy give a noble touch at narrow jackets and micro-patterned trousers. A colorful mix of Bulgarian Lord and Las Vegas Glam.

Bags
The spectrum of this topic spans from functional day companions over pochettes up to glamorous evening clutches. Moved surfaces are attained by layered, squamous leather patches creating effect at medium-sized sling bags. Clasps, clutch fixations and metal cliplocks are of a great variety – leather-coated, lacquered or with artisan touch. Decoration, colorful patchwork and applications combine contrasts. The leather is decorated or richly ornamented, the clutches imaginatively engraved or coined. Large gemstones are massively used in XL format.

Bags/male
Ottoman carpet patterns are the inspiration for patterns and ornamental details. Travel bags and weekenders become very light by the use of woven materials. Leather is often just used as trimming or at handles. Patchwork at high level in the case of Doctorbags in Croc and smooth leather. Paisley imprints and stitchings appear masculine by the significant use of zippers.

DYNAMIC VIBES

Culture Remix
Same as with music, where different songs are combined to something new, is with fashion where mixing and combining in an individual way is also practised: a wild mix of most various styles. Embroidered sports jackets in combination with coated carrot pants meet white shirt-blouses with tight leather pants, printed tunic with leggings and coarse knitwear. There is no limit in imagination: Ethno elements are combined with Denim and Sportswear.

Bags
Shoppers, backpacks, travel bags, weekenders in nylon with new colorblock. Shoppers and cube shapes in patchwork of Paisley and carpet patterns, punched furs and leather for Doctorbags and flat Postbags. 3D applications and drapery elements. Metal is used sparely, if at all as dominant eyecatcher.

Colors
Here, too, the mix-thinking is dominating: Computer animation in mix with ethnic patterns. A spectrum of NasturtiumOrange and pure colors like greenish MaizeYellow, ShockingPink and Petrol, completed with EarthBrown and Black.

Campus Revolution by RONCATO

Bags
New College is the header: functional foldovers, shoppers and messenger bags of Crash Nylon and canvas material. Second Hand aspects with bowling bags, backpacks, and matchsacks in Nylon PU combinations. The bags are partially printed or decorated with emblems, numbers, and badges. Check is omnipresent. Rivet aspects are a must.

Colors
The classical sportswear colors like SportsBlue, CampusRed, GrassGreen, and SnowWhite are regenerated by SandBeige, FootballBrown, and NightBlack.

Nature Gang
Nature bond in the urban environment: Lumbercheck-shirts in combination with used WashDenim and lambskin jackets, voluminous cardigans in hand-knitted design with romantic frill- and pleatedbreast blouses and leather leggings, tunics with rustic wool in check look as well as velvet sports jackets. Contrasts reached by materials from smooth to moved, soft to solid.

Bags
Rustic and „solidly grounded“ – that is how the bags may be characterized: medium-sized, practical allrounders, backpacks, and small provisions bags in canvas-leather mix. Army and utility aspects with foldovers, messengers and shoppers in aged Nylon with saddle leather. Check designing also for shoulder straps and partial patchwork. Naturally aged leather for Doctorbags and upright format for shoulder bags. Artisan processing techniques bring about a handmade look, Velours surfaces, Nubuk, and ground leather for the natural grip.

Colors
Wilderness in the municipal park: EarthBrown, OakleavesGreen and GoldLeaf meet AshglowOrange and LumberjackRed thus creating an “urban nature” color atmosphere.

Party Vagabonds
Guitar Hero meets Dancing Queen: New Wave Styling newly interpreted, black in all its facets. Tight pants and leather hot pants with lowcut tops and leather jackets. Tees with Swarovsky applications, Denim hot pants, corsages with applications, “the little black” in young interpretation. A spell of wickedness, a very sexy look with slight Glam appeal.

Bags
Show off for the variety of shapes: short-handle bags in horizontal format spanning over to shoppers in upright format to small shoulder bags at long straps. Clutches with wrist loop or Foldover bags with pass-through. Edges are accentuated by contrasts, surfaces are broken up by pleats or scales. The leather styles are smooth, humid, and brilliant or even imprinted with snake-, ray- or croc designs.

Colors
Black as the night: shimmering „RavenBlack“ meets NightBlue and CrystalBlack. „Dark on dark“ contrasts are possible with VelvetRed, AntiqueSilver as well as BlackViolet.

The next ILM - Summer Styles will take place from the 26th till the 29th of September 2009.

(16/04/2009)